Hello:

 

I have a 2000 LX with a manual
transmission. This is the first Honda that I have owned that has a hydraulic
clutch. All of my Accords and Civics have been a cable.

 

I find the operation that you are describing
very unusual. When you push the clutch to the floor and it only comes back half
way, could you put your foot underneath the pedal and bring it back to the top
of the stroke. If so, did the clutch drop to the middle position again? Did the
clutch “action” feel mushy? Was the action hard? Where there any
leaks?

 

From what I can recall, there is a push
rod that is attached to the pedal assembly. The rod goes through the firewall
into the Master cylinder. The rod pushes the valve in the master which pushes
the clutch fluid. As the fluid is compressed, the “rubber” cups in
the valve body expand which causes the fluid motion. This motion is transferred
to the slave cylinder. Generally a mechanical advantage is had between the two
cylinders. If you release the pedal the master cylinder valve move the opposite
direction the pressure is released on the clutch assembly. IF, the valve does
not move back all the way in the master cylinder, a spring on the pedal assembly
must pull the pedal back to rest. A small amount of free play must exist in
hydraulic systems as they do in cable systems.

 

Has the Honda dealer looked at the “mechanics”
of the system rather than the hydraulics?

 

I will look at my CR-V shop manual
tonight.

 

 

Jeff

 

I have never had this problem in my 1999 CR-V EX 5-speed.  A clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are all there is to the actuation of the clutch unless the clutch rod/bar at the transmission is bent or broken.  You probably can adjust the pedal free-play in the floorboard which is common with hydraulic clutches. 
I had a 1985 Toyota 4-Runner which I replaced the clutch master cylinder once ($39)(under the hood) and the slave cylinder twice ($15 each)(at the transmission under the vehicle).  The clutch master cylinder wore out at 175K+ miles (stop placing pressure on the slave via fluid).  The slave cylinders went out at 145K+ miles and 185K+ miles, both times the rubber bladder seal leaked when the winter temperatures got below freezing (RUBBER FATIGUE!!).  Keep in mind I used very large tires with the factory gearing which put a terrible work load on the clutch.
Unless it is time for a clutch replacement or the clutch was replaced incorrectly, there isn't much to go wrong with a hydraulic clutch.  Contaminated clutch fluid

Thanks, I've driven manual honda's all my life and
I'm pretty sure I know how the car should feel. The
dealer replaced the master cylinder and it still
sticks. He keeps telling me that there's really
nothing else he can do unless the transmission breaks.
But I really don't want that to happen for them to fix
it. I'm going to ask them if they checked out the
clutch rod/bar. I asked if there were any leaks found
but there weren't. I'm trying to cover all my bases
with them before I take the car back. Unfortunately,
this problem is so sporadic that I can't even drive
the car to the dealer to show them! I'll keep
makingsuggestions to them. Thanks for you input.
Cara

Cara - You say in your note: "He keeps telling me that there's really

nothing else he can do unless the transmission breaks." This is
a load of crap. He is giving up too easily, and dumping the problem back
in your lap. That strikes me as being a very poor representative for Honda.
I have nothing but total respect for the Honda dealer here in Saskatoon
(Meidl Honda). They do not rest until the problem is solved, and will provide
a loaner vehicle if need be. Customer service is first quality, just like
the vehicles they sell. You should insist on nothing less from your dealer.

- Rod

p.s. - they are finally "unveilling" the 02 CR-V here tomorrow night for
invited guests. There will be wine and cheese, dainty sandwiches and weird
food, like capers. I'm excited! - Rod