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> 1998 Honda Passport Stalling, stalling with no codes showing
tiresmoke69
post Dec 12 2007, 06:56 PM
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The vehicle stalls or completely loses power randomly when driving... I checked voltage and it was 12 volts while idling and reving up. I had the alternater checked and it is good. It has a new battery and fuel pump. It cranks and drives fine other than the stalling. It doesn't smoke. It just randomly goes dead or either loses power completely while driving at any speed. Anybody have any idea's on what it could be? Also it has thrown a p0101 code... All help is appreciated (IMG:style_emoticons/default/s12.gif)

This post has been edited by tiresmoke69: Dec 13 2007, 12:48 PM
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dsahu2
post Jan 17 2008, 03:29 PM
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today(its a pretty cold day abt 14 deg) I also had the same problem. I filled up gas, it started very clean but after going about 10ft the car just lost power, the ckeck engine light came on as well as the battery light. after that every time the car would start but when i put it to drive it simple loses power. I had to tow it to a local garage. Then when they checked car there was nothing wrong, no engine code, good battery and alternator. They have no clue what went wrong. ... so did you happen to find out what was the issue?? highly appriciate help!!! anyone please....
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Grace
post Jan 18 2008, 09:34 AM
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That's completely puzzling about the car stalling. With a good battery, and alternator the problem must be from something else. Do you know a mechanic who you ask about it? See what he says.
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tater03
post Jan 19 2008, 07:48 PM
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Wow, I am stumped if you have changed all of the above parts. Have you change your fuel filter? I don't really think that would be the cause of it though. I would say this is one for a mechanic. Hope to hear you get it fixed soon.
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Honda_Guy
post May 21 2008, 05:59 AM
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p0101 code or Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Range/Performance Problem basically this means that there is a problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit. The PCM detects that the actual MAF sensor frequency signal is not within a predetermined range of the calculated MAF value for more than 4.0 seconds.

The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. Then start with the cheapest, easiest repair procedures:

* Inspect for the following conditions:
An incorrectly routed harness--Inspect the harness of the MAF sensor in order to verify that it is not routed too close to the following components:
- The secondary ignition wires or coils
- Any solenoids
- Any relays
- Any motors
* A low minimum air rate through the sensor bore may cause this DTC to set at idle or during deceleration. Inspect for any vacuum leaks downstream of the MAF sensor.
* A wide open throttle (WOT) acceleration from a stop should cause the MAF sensor g/s display on the scan tool to increase rapidly. This increase should be from 6-12 g/s at idle to 230 g/s or more at the time of the 1-2 shift. If the increase is not observed, inspect for a restriction in the induction system or the exhaust system.
* The barometric pressure (BARO) that is used in order to calculate the predicted MAF value is initially based on the MAP sensor at key ON.
* When the engine is running the MAP sensor value is continually updated near WOT. A skewed MAP sensor will cause the calculated MAF value to be inaccurate. The value shown for the MAP sensor display varies with the altitude. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF, 103 kPa is the approximate value near sea level. This value will decrease by approximately 3 kPa for every 305 meters (1,000 feet) of altitude.
* A high resistance on the ground circuit of the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set.
* Any loss of vacuum to the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set.

If you suspect the condition may be related to aftermarket accessories, refer to Checking Aftermarket Accessories in Wiring Systems.

Good luck!
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